The Greek island of Ios may be small, but it’s full of surprises.

In the early winter of 2020 we started putting together a dream trip for June of that year– sailing the Aegean. We built an itinerary that included time in Athens and then continued on Santorini where we would board a sailboat and sail through the Cyclades for a week, ending in Mykonos. Clearly we did not take that trip in 2020 but the stars (and our calendars) aligned this year and we made it to Greece. After an amazing time in Athens and Santorini, we boarded a small boat at Ammoudi Bay and zipped over to Thirasia (a small island in the caldera), where we boarded Serendipity, our home for the next 8 days. Our initial sail turned into a motoring expedition as the Mltemi winds were raging at 35kn and the wind coupled with the waves made pulling the sails out dangerous. It didn’t help that the mainsail was stuck inside the mast due to a modification that the previous captain had made before handing off the ship to our intrepid captain, Fotis. We made the passage to Ios in about 3.5 hours and pulled into our slip in the late afternoon, a little green around the gills, but ready to explore. We were supposed to stay on the island for a single night before sailing on but the winds gave us two nights in beautiful Ios.

Port Ios

The port is located a short walk or bus ride from the main village of Chora, which is situated on a hilltop overlooking the Aegean Sea. Visitors can either take a ferry from Athens or other nearby islands to reach the port or sail in on a private boat, like we did. The port is a hub of activity during the summer months. There are many restaurants, cafes, and shops in the area, as well as a variety of accommodations ranging from hotels to apartments. We didn’t utilize any of the accommodation in Ios, as we were sleeping in port on Serendipity. For those who find themselves in need of provisioning, there are a couple of grocery stores around the marina to stock up for your onward journey. Very near where we moored up, there was a lovely cafe that served breakfast, lunch, and dinner – Thai Me Up. Both evenings that we were in Ios, we popped in for an aperitivo of chicken satay and a cocktail that I am making at home to this day called the Pink Fizz (pink gin, prosecco, and red fruits).

Our second (and last night) in Ios, we walked around the corner from the dock to a restaurant that we’d heard good reviews about – Allo. The restaurant served dishes tapas-style and everything was delicious. I am still dreaming of the saganaki from Allo.

Chora

Chora is the main village on the island of Ios in Greece and is known for its traditional Cycladic architecture and charming alleyways. The village is situated on a hilltop, providing breathtaking views of the Aegean Sea and the surrounding landscape. Visitors can wander through the narrow streets and admire the white-washed houses and blue-domed churches, many of which date back to the 16th and 17th centuries. Chora is also home to a range of shops, restaurants, and cafes, making it a popular destination for both locals and tourists. During the summer months, the village comes alive with music and dance performances, festivals, and other cultural events.

For dinner on our first night in Ios, we took the bus from the port up the hill to Chora. We wandered the streets until we found Lord Byron, a restaurant that we had a reservation at with others from our boat. The restaurant was funky and eclectic, with a beautiful courtyard. The stars of the night were a tomahawk steak and tyrokafteri (hot feta dip). Our waitress had a fiery personality and she seemed to have a crush on Fotis (who wouldn’t?).

For breakfast one morning, we popped up to Chora and ate at Mozaik. Their patio seating had a great view of Chora, staff was lovely, and the food was filling enough to get us ready for our road trip around the island.

Road Trip

With a bonus day in Ios, we decided to rent a car and explore all that the island had to offer. A short walk from the port, Ios Rent a Car provided us with a Fiat Panda and we hit the island to explore. Be sure to learn how to drive stick – it is a great skill and the fading art is often necessary when renting a car abroad.

Our first stop was Skarkos, an archaeological site that dates back to the Bronze Age. It’s hard to believe that this small hill was once a thriving settlement with streets, buildings, and even a drainage system. The excavations are ongoing, and there’s always something new to discover. Walking among the ruins, we felt like we were stepping back in time.

Next, we visited the Tomb of Homer, which is said to be the burial place of the ancient Greek poet who wrote the Iliad and the Odyssey. The tomb is located on a hilltop with stunning views of the island. While there’s no way to confirm whether Homer is actually buried here, it’s still a fascinating spot to visit for anyone interested in Greek mythology. Homer’s tomb overlooks a stunning view of what we decided to name “Saganaki Island” because it looks like a piece of cheese frying in a pan.

After all that history, we were ready for some delicious food. We made our way to Diaseli Cheesery, a family-run farm that specializes in traditional Greek cheese. We sampled several varieties, including feta, graviera, and kefalotyri, and they were all delicious. The gregarious owners were incredibly welcoming and even gave us a tour of the farm. This is the jewel of Ios.

Our final stop was Manganari Beach, one of the most beautiful beaches on the island. The crystal-clear water and soft sand were the perfect way to end our road trip. We spent the afternoon swimming, sunbathing, and soaking up the stunning scenery. The restaurants along the beach are happy to sell beachside drinks and there are chairs and umbrellas for rent.

On our way back to the port from Manganari beach, we were got stuck in the most Greek isle traffic jam of all– a herd of goats. My mind started playing Zorba’s Dance and I let the joy of the day wash over me.

Overall, our time on Ios was an unforgettable experience. From ancient history to modern-day cheese-making, there’s something for everyone on this small but amazing island. Whether you’re a history buff, a foodie, or a beach lover, Ios is definitely worth a visit.