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Aci Trezza

As with a lot of great travel stories, we found ourselves in Aci Trezza by chance. Our original plan for Sicily had us starting in Palermo and moving counter clockwise around the island, ending in Catania. That plan would have us skip Taormina, and anything between Taormina and Catania– which happens to be where Aci Trezza lies. Well, our plans changed and we ended up flying in and out of Catania, which required a tweaking of the whole itinerary. We arrived in Catania around 5pm and decided that instead of braving the narrow streets above Taormina in the dark, we would stop somewhere along the way for the night. If you’ve read any of our previous adventures, you may have noticed that I am a planner, thus I picked our stop and booked the hotel before we landed. During my research, Aci Trezza may have piqued my interest due to it’s mythological connections but we left the town wishing we had stayed just a little bit longer because it had quite a lot to offer a visitor.

Our first run in with the famous Testa di moro.

Arriving

Catania-Fontanarossa Airport (CTA), also known as Vincenzo Bellini Airport, is a gateway to the rich culture, history, and breathtaking landscapes of Sicily. Located just a short drive from the bustling city center of Catania, this modern airport is one of the busiest in Italy, serving millions of passengers each year. Named after the famous Catanese composer Vincenzo Bellini, the airport features a range of amenities, including cafes, shops, and comfortable waiting areas. The efficient layout (especially for an Italian airport) and helpful staff ensure a smooth arrival and departure experience.

Mount Etna greeting visitors upon arrival at Catania-Fontanarossa Airport (CTA).

For those looking to explore Sicily at their own pace, renting a car is the way to go. We are President’s Circle with Hertz (you have to love those credit card perks ) and found the experience with them at Catania Airport to be fairly smooth. The Hertz rental desk is conveniently located within the terminal, allowing for a quick and hassle-free pickup process. Hertz offers a wide selection of vehicles to suit different travel needs, from compact cars for solo travelers to larger vehicles for families or groups. A word of warning, the streets in Sicily are narrow, renting a smaller car is advisable– we went a compact but were “upgraded” to a crossover and found it a little difficult to maneuver. Also, most cars in Europe are manual, if you cannot drive stick, make sure to request an automatic car well in advance (and be prepared to pay for the luxury).

Outside of the major highways that cross the island, this is about as wide as the roads in Sicily get.

Driving in Sicily can be an adventure in itself, with its mix of scenic coastal roads, historic towns, and mountainous terrain (those cliffside switchbacks are no joke). It’s important to familiarize yourself with some local driving tips to ensure a safe and enjoyable experience. Sicilian drivers are known for their assertive driving style, so it’s crucial to stay alert and confident behind the wheel. Roundabouts are common, and understanding the right of way is essential; typically, vehicles already in the roundabout have the right of way. Additionally, be mindful of the narrow streets in historic towns and villages, where it might be necessary to fold in your side mirrors or park outside the town center and explore on foot.

The harrowing drives are worth it for the roadside views.

Fuel stations, or “benzinaio,” are plentiful along major roads and highways, but they can be less frequent in remote areas, so it’s wise to keep your tank topped up. Parking in cities can sometimes be challenging, with many areas requiring a parking disc (“disco orario”) or payment at nearby meters. In Catania and other major cities, look for blue lines indicating paid parking zones. Many of the major highways have a toll system. You’ll get a ticket when you enter the highway and give it to an attendant to calculate the fare upon exiting. Lastly, enjoy the drive! Sicily’s diverse landscapes, from the rugged beauty of Mount Etna to the idyllic coastal vistas, offer countless opportunities for memorable road trips. Renting a car gives you the freedom to uncover the hidden gems of this enchanting island at your own pace.

Staying

As mentioned, I booked a hotel before we landed because I am not really a “go with the flow” gal when it comes to accommodations. I had a couple prerequisties for wherever we stayed on this night and they were that the hotel have free parking and be walking distance to the main sites that I wanted to see. Hotel Malavoglia fit the bill for what I was looking for, it is a charming and conveniently located accommodation, perfect for travelers seeking both comfort and accessibility. Situated just a short stroll from the picturesque waterfront, the hotel offers a range of modern amenities, including an inviting outdoor pool, complimentary Wi-Fi, and a cozy bar where guests can unwind after a day of exploring. We only spent one evening here but the room was clean and comfortable and the staff was friendly, what more could we ask for? Whether you’re lookinh to marvel at the Cyclopes Rocks, enjoy fresh food at a local eatery, or simply relax by the pool, Hotel Malavoglia provides an ideal base in Aci Trezza.

Eating & Drinking

While our time in Aci Trezza was short, we made sure to see the town the best way we know how—through our stomachs. Our culinary journey began with a delightful dinner at Venere Pizza, a local favorite known for its unique and delicious pizzas named after Greek and Roman gods. Each pizza is a masterpiece, reflecting the divine names they carry. As is customary in Italy, everyone gets their own pizza, allowing us to savor the intricate flavors of our individual choices. The crust was perfectly thin and crispy, the toppings fresh and flavorful (potatoes on a pizza– I’m retiring here). It was a heavenly experience worthy of the gods themselves.

You had me at potatoes on a pizza.

After dinner, we made our way down the street to the aptly named Lounge Bar, a chic spot with a beautiful terrace offering a peek into the local city scene. We indulged in expertly crafted cocktails while enjoying the warm evening breeze. One of the charming aspects of drinking in Europe is the tradition of being served small snacks with your drinks, and the Lounge Bar did not disappoint. Our cocktails were accompanied by an array of tasty nibbles, including olives and nuts. It’s a custom that adds a touch of hospitality and makes the experience even more enjoyable—a practice that America could certainly adopt.

David was thrilled with the tiny bit of chocolate as a garnish on his cocktail at Lounge Bar.

The next morning, we discovered the highlight of our culinary adventure in Aci Trezza—the first and best granita of our entire Sicily trip at Gran Cafe Solaire. Served with warm, soft brioche, this traditional Sicilian breakfast treat was an absolute delight. David chose a refreshing strawberry granita, bursting with natural sweetness, while I indulged in a creamy pistachio flavor that was rich and nutty. The combination of the icy granita with the fluffy brioche was simply unforgettable. It was the perfect way to start our day, setting the bar high for the rest of our Sicilian granita experiences.

Pistachio granita at Gran Cafe Solaire, easily the best granita of the trip.

What to See

The Cyclopes Rocks, or “Faraglioni dei Ciclopi,” are the most famous attraction here, and for good reason. According to Greek mythology, these towering basalt sea stacks were hurled into the sea by the Cyclops Polyphemus in a fit of rage after being blinded by Odysseus. The dramatic legends and the breathtaking beauty of these ancient rocks make them a must-see for any visitor to Aci Trezza. As you walk along the coast, it’s easy to imagine the mythical battles that took place here, adding a layer of enchantment to the natural splendor.

The water promenade in Aci Trezza is another highlight that should not be missed. This charming walkway stretches along the coastline, offering panoramic views of the Ionian Sea and the Cyclopes Rocks in the distance. Lined with quaint cafes and restaurants, it’s an ideal spot to enjoy a leisurely meal while soaking in the serene maritime atmosphere. As you stroll along the promenade, you’ll encounter local fishermen mending their nets and boats bobbing gently in the harbor, providing a glimpse into the daily life of this coastal village. The promenade is especially enchanting at sunset, when the sky is painted in hues of orange and pink, casting a magical glow over the sea. We had the absolute joy of watching a full moon rise of the rocks from the promenade, a hauntingly beautiful sight.

No visit to Aci Trezza would be complete without exploring the Norman Castle, or “Castello Normanno,” situated on a rocky promontory overlooking the sea. This medieval fortress offers a fascinating glimpse into the region’s history and strategic importance. Unfortunately, our visit was too short to pop in and we had to settle for seeing it from a distance. Together, the Cyclopes Rocks, water promenade, and Norman Castle create a captivating blend of mythology, natural beauty, and historical intrigue that makes Aci Trezza a truly unique destination.

The Norman Castle in the distance.

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