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Punta Arenas

When we planned our trip to Rapa Nui (Easter Island), we used points for the flight to and from Santiago and ended up with a few days on the end of the trip to spend in mainland Chile. We debated about where to spend the extra time, coming down between Valparaíso and Punta Arenas. Ultimately, the chance to see penguins and the Strait of Magellan won out. Today, we’re diving deep into that wild and captivating entry to Patagonia, Punta Arenas, Chile. Buckle up as we take you through a whirlwind tour of this remote paradise, from its rich history to its unique culinary offerings, local drinks, and must-visit attractions. Grab your favorite bev and let’s take a journey to the end of the Earth.

Unveiling the History

Nestled at the southern tip of Chile, Punta Arenas is a city steeped in history and adventure. Founded in 1848, this coastal gem began as a humble trading post, serving as a gateway to the wild and untamed landscapes of Patagonia. Its strategic location along the Strait of Magellan made it a vital stopover for ships navigating the treacherous waters of Tierra del Fuego.

In the late 19th century, Punta Arenas witnessed a booming era of prosperity during the Patagonian sheep farming and wool trade, turning it into a bustling hub of commerce. Its historic buildings, many of which still stand today, tell the story of this golden age, showcasing a unique blend of European architecture in a rugged Patagonian setting.

Hotel Plaza and the Catedral de Punta Arenas

As the gateway to Antarctica, Punta Arenas became a launching point for numerous expeditions to the frozen continent, further cementing its reputation as a city of explorers. Today, it’s a vibrant destination where you can explore museums, indulge in delectable seafood, and embark on adventures into the breathtaking wilderness of Patagonia.

Traditional dancing in the Plaza de Armas

Setting Up Camp

Our journey began with a flight from Santiago, and let’s just say the aerial view as we approached Punta Arenas was like something out of a dream. But for those craving an adventurous road trip, driving through the winding roads that lead to this haven is an experience in itself and we met many people who had been roadtripping through Patagonia.

Hot tip: Nab a window seat on the left side of the the plane on the flight from SCL to PUQ and on the right side on the return flight for epic views over Patagonia

We set our bags down at the enchanting Hotel Plaza, a cozy haven that embraces the spirit of the region with décor that tells the history of Magallanes. The hotel is ideally situated on the Plaza de Armas and makes for an easy walk to plenty of restaurants, travel agencies (for day tours), and the Costanera del Estrecho. Included in the stay is a hearty breakfast and the staff is very helpful.

Navigating the Local Flavors

We got in to town a little too early to check in to our hotel and we were given recommendations on where to grab a bite and pass some time– the first recommendation, Kiosco Roca, is definitely a spot not to be missed when visiting Punta Arenas. The spot is famous for the unique “banana milk” and an unforgettable sandwich. The two standout sandwiches are the “Choriqueso” and “Choripan.” The Choriqueso is a delightful fusion of savory chorizo sausage and gooey melted cheese, while the Choripan boasts a delicious chorizo pate served in a crusty roll, delivering an authentic and satisfying taste of Chilean street food. I haven’t had it in me to look up exactly what banana milk is (nobody wants to know how the sausage is made) but the pairing of the sweet beverage with the salty choriqueso is mind-blowing. There is always a line, it moves quickly, and it is worth the wait.

Bananma milk and Choriqueso sandwiches at Kiosco Roca

On a walk around town, we stumbled upon La Luna restaurant, a hidden gem tucked away in the heart of this coastal city. The restaurant’s prime location, right by the waterfront, provided a picturesque backdrop to our dining experience. As we stepped inside, we were greeted by a warm and inviting atmosphere. The décor exuded a rustic charm with its wooden furnishings and nautical-themed accents. What caught our eye were the heartfelt notes and mementos left by travelers over the years, adorning the walls, serving as a testament to the restaurant’s place in the hearts of wanderers from around the world. La Luna’s beer selection was a delightful surprise for beer enthusiasts like us. They offered a well-curated array of local and international brews, allowing us to sample a taste of Chile’s burgeoning craft beer scene. It was a perfect complement to our dining adventure. La Luna’s menu showcases the region’s culinary treasures, with an emphasis on fresh seafood and succulent Patagonian meat.

Our final evening in Punta Arenas brought us to Estilo Magallánico. This restaurant’s location in a historic building added a touch of nostalgia to our dining adventure, as we entered its doors with great anticipation. We were immediately charmed by the inviting décor. The atmosphere felt cozy and comfortable but also elegant, making it the perfect place to savor the rich culinary delights that awaited us. Estilo Magallánico had a wine selection that showcased some of Chile’s finest vintages, making it a wine connoisseur’s paradise. We enjoyed pairing our meal with a local red wine, which perfectly complemented the flavors of our dishes. The real star of the show at Estilo Magallánico was the food. The scent of grilled meat wafted through the air even before we walked in, promising a feast for the senses. Their specialty was succulent steaks and grilled meats, expertly cooked to perfection. We savored every bite of our tender, flavorful cuts, prepared with an authentic Magallanes touch.

Raising a Glass to Tradition

For us, a trip wouldn’t be complete without sipping on some local bevs. In the heart of Punta Arenas, Birra! Cerveza & Buena Mesa is a beer lover’s paradise. With its diverse selection of craft brews and mouthwatering local cuisine, this cozy spot is a must-visit, offering a delightful blend of flavors that captures the essence of Patagonia and your more typical bar food (hello, fried cheese). We found ourselves here a few times on this trip, as it was very much our vibe, the food was good and familiar, and the beer selection unbeatable.

Cerveceria Artesanal Herdando Magallanes in Punta Arenas is a captivating destination for beer aficionados, offering a unique take-away-only experience. This brewery, rooted in the rich brewing traditions of Patagonia, brews, packages, and sells its exceptional beers right on the premises. Founded by passionate local brewers with a deep love for their craft, the brewery has quickly become a cherished institution in the city, blending innovation with a respect for the region’s heritage. While you can’t enjoy a pint on-site, the opportunity to take home a piece of Patagonian beer culture is an experience worth savoring.

Perched atop Punta Arenas, Sky Bar is a breathtaking oasis in the heart of the city. With panoramic views of the Strait of Magellan and the cityscape, it offers a stunning backdrop to savor craft cocktails and delectable appetizers. Whether you’re enjoying a Pisco Sour or indulging in fresh seafood bites, this rooftop haven provides an unforgettable experience high above the southernmost tip of Chile.

The view from Sky Bar is unbeatable

In very true Parrino fashion, we stumbled upon a beer festival while visiting a remote part of South America. On the our trip to Tierra del Fuego, we met a Chilean guy and became fast friends. On the ferry across to the mainland, he let us know about a beer festival that some of the people staying at his hotel had told him about. We were sold. As we stepped into the lively atmosphere of Fiesta de la Cerveza Punta Arenas, we were immediately enveloped in a vibrant celebration of beer and culture. The beer tents stretched out before us, offering a tantalizing selection of both local and national Chilean brews, making it a beer lover’s paradise. The infectious rhythms of live music filled the air, encouraging us to dance and immerse ourselves in the festive spirit of the evening. And of course, we couldn’t resist trying the “completo,” a Chilean hot dog adorned with sauerkraut, mayo, and avocado, which quickly became our go-to festival snack. It was a perfect blend of flavors, just like the Fiesta de la Cerveza itself, where tradition and modernity harmoniously came together in one unforgettable celebration. A core memory was unlocked as we danced to Cumbia, beer in hand, surrounded by locals, as the sun set at nearly 11:00pm.

Exploring the Gems

The weather in this part of the world is unpredictable. This close to Antarctica, the winds can pick up and become dangerous quickly. Unsurprisingly, a couple of our day-trips were canceled because of those winds. Not to wallow or waste a day, we used that time to explore the city!

Our first stop was straight up to Cerro de la Cruz, where the panoramic views of the city and the strait are simply breathtaking. From here we decided to visit the Cemetery of Punta Arenas. The historic cemetery is a captivating blend of history, architecture, and poignant tales. Its avenues are lined by beautiful cypress trees, chapels, mausoleums, crypts and tombstones. Here lie the remains of ancient settlers, Croats, English, Germans and from other latitudes. It dates back to 1984 and its grand front door was donated by Sara Braun, one of the most outstanding women of Magallanes during the 20th century. There is a tale that says that one of the conditions for the donation was that she would be the only deceased person who would pass through that portal. For this reason, this entrance is closed and visitors must enter through a side door.

Another must visit site, The Costanera, offers a picturesque stroll with stunning views, revealing glimpses of history and the beauty of the landscape. This 5km waterfront promenade offered unrivaled views of the mesmerizing Strait of Magellan, where the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans meet, creating a captivating natural wonder.

Our leisurely walk along The Costanera was enriched by several remarkable monuments and landmarks, each narrating a unique story. We encountered the striking “Circumnavigation,” an ode the fifth centenary of the landfall of the Magellan expedition. Further along, we paid our respects to the intrepid explorers of the past at the “Monumento A Tripulantes Goleta Ancud,” a tribute to the voyage of the twenty-three expeditionaries who traveled aboard the Goleta Ancud who sailed from the Port of Ancud, Chile in May 1843 bound for the Strait of Magellan.

Walking The Costanera felt like a journey through history and a communion with nature. We saw dozens of birds that were new to us (hello, Lifers) and collected a bit of sea glass in the areas where we were able to walk directly along the water. The panoramic views and the echoes of maritime heritage made this an unmissable experience in Punta Arenas

One particularly windy day when everything was cancelled, I took to Google to find something in the area that we hadn’t done and that did not require a boat trip. This search lead me to the Museo de Nao Victoria. David is a huge maritime/sailing nerd, we have a few small sailboats and he loves to learn about sailing maritime history around the world– this was a perfect fit. was a true voyage into the maritime history of this southern Chilean city. Located just a short drive from the city center, the museum is nestled on the shores of the Strait of Magellan, providing a captivating setting that sets the stage for a memorable journey.

Getting to the museum wasn’t a problem at all. We opted for a short Uber ride, which was both convenient and affordable. For those who prefer public transportation, local buses are readily available, making it an easily accessible attraction. While the entrance fee was quite reasonable (4,000 Chilean Pesos or ~$4.30USD), the experience within was invaluable. The cost made it accessible to all travelers, from history enthusiasts to curious explorers like ourselves.

The Nao Victoria

Once inside, we were greeted by a remarkable collection of meticulously crafted replica ships. The star of the show is the Nao Victoria, a faithful reproduction of the vessel that made history as the first to circumnavigate the globe. Stepping aboard, we were transported back in time, a feeling that deepened with every moment spent exploring the other ships on display.

They wouldn’t let us climb the crow’s nest

The Museo de Nao Victoria does more than just showcase ships; it dives into the heart of the expeditions that shaped the region’s history. The exhibits tell the tales of explorers like Ferdinand Magellan and their audacious journeys through the treacherous waters of the Strait of Magellan. There was even a replica of the HMS Beagle and it was very cool to step aboard and see how Darwin lived on his journey aboard her. We left with a profound appreciation for the bravery and determination of those who ventured into the unknown.

Our visit to this museum was an immersive experience, an opportunity to touch, feel, and appreciate the legacy of those who dared to explore the waters of the Strait of Magellan. For anyone with an interest in maritime history, the Museo de Nao Victoria is an absolute must-visit when you find yourself in Punta Arenas.

There are noticeable shipwrecks all along the coast in this area, a reminder of how treacherous the Strait of Magellan can be

Day Trips Beyond Imagination

Venturing out on a day trip to Tierra del Fuego was a highlight of our stay in Punta Arenas. We booked a tour, the tour company and guide were average (the tour was in Spanish, which we understand), but the destination more than made up for the lack of stellar service. Our trip started with an hour-long journey across the Strait of Magellan. I grew up in books and crossing the strait made me feel like I was aboard the HMS Beagle, charting new lands.

Crossing the Strait of Magellan

We landed in Porvenir, charming town situated on the Chilean side of Tierra del Fuego and explored the town for a little while. One of the main sites in town is the Plaza Selknam, which features a monument honoring the indigenous Selk’nam people.

The native tribe of Tierra del Fuego, known as the Selk’nam or Ona people, inhabited the southernmost tip of South America for thousands of years before European contact. They were renowned for their survival skills in the harsh, cold, and windy climate of the region, relying on hunting and gathering for sustenance. Tragically, their population declined significantly due to diseases brought by outsiders and conflicts, and today, their culture and language are on the brink of extinction.

A monument to the Selk’nam

From Porvenir, we drove towards the jewel of the day, Parque Pinguino Rey. The park serves as a vital sanctuary for these iconic birds, allowing researchers and visitors to observe and learn about their behavior, biology, and the unique challenges they face in this southernmost habitat. It underscores the importance of preserving such ecosystems to ensure the long-term survival of the King Penguins in this region.

A bizzare sight: King Penguins in grassland

The King Penguin population on Tierra del Fuego is a relatively recent phenomenon, with these majestic birds establishing a small colony on the island in the past few decades. This is noteworthy because King Penguins are typically associated with sub-Antarctic regions, and their presence in Tierra del Fuego is a testament to the changing dynamics of wildlife distribution, possibly influenced by shifts in ocean currents and temperature patterns. While the population remains modest compared to their larger colonies elsewhere, it is a testament to nature’s adaptability and the ongoing exploration of new habitats by these resilient birds.

This was my second time seeing a penguin (my favorite animal) in the wild, the first being in the Galapagos. To avoid disturbing the birds, we stood in various blinds around their habitat. The blinds all had information about the penguins (and other shore birds) and long-range binoculars to view them through. We brought our own binoculars (bird nerds) and I definitely cried watching the penguins go about their daily lives, swimming, waddling, and basking.

Me, living my best life– also, a reminder that we were visiting in January, peak summer for this region, and temperatures were still in the 40s and 50s (°F)

After we had our penguin fill, it was time for the long journey back to Punta Arenas. We took a different route on the way back, to a port that would make for a 20 minute crossing of the strait due to a pick-up in the wind speeds. We crossed the island watched as the jagged coastline gave wave to wind-swept grasslands. On the drive we stopped a few times to view the native fauna. Herds of guanaco, a wild camelid native to South America that looks like a slender llama, crossed in front of us and at one point we passed a flamboyance of Chilean Flamingos. It was one of those days that seems almost out of a dream– who would imagine that penguins and flamingos could thrive in the same environment?!

Guanaco

We had another penguin-centric tour scheduled to Magdalena island but the weather had other plans (notice a theme?), with large swells making it too dangerous to take a boat out. Luckily, the tour agency offered another wildlife tour, specifically to see the native Andean Condors.

Andean Condor in flight

The tour kicked off with a scenic drive through the rugged terrain of Patagonia, where we had the chance to admire the dramatic landscapes. Our knowledgeable guide shared insights into the region’s unique ecosystems and the magnificent Andean condors, which are the true stars of the show.

Andean Condor in flight

As we reached the designated condor spotting location, we couldn’t contain our excitement. With binoculars in hand, we kept our eyes peeled for these majestic birds, known for their colossal wingspans. Witnessing these remarkable creatures in their natural habitat, soaring gracefully through the pristine skies, was a truly awe-inspiring experience.

Andean Condor rookery

Throughout the tour, our guide provided fascinating information about the condors’ behavior and conservation efforts in the region, adding depth to our adventure. On our drive back to Punta Arenas, we also got to see some Lesser Rhea, a large flightless bird, and we were able to stop and view another flamboyance of Chilean Flamingoes closer to the city. The tour not only satisfied our wildlife enthusiast souls but also allowed us to soak in the untouched beauty of Patagonia.

Embracing the Challenges

Of course, traveling to such a remote paradise has its downsides. I’m sure you took note but the quickly-changing weather of the region can throw surprises your way, so pack for all seasons. And don’t be surprised by the long days in the summer and the brief hours of daylight during the winter – the sun’s position dances to its own tune at these latitudes. Even with the weather hassles, this was an unforgettable addition to our time in Chile. I can’t wait to come back one day and explore more of Patagonia or perhaps use the city as a jumping-off point for an Antarctic adventure.

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