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Koufonisia

I’ve been dreading writing this post for two reasons: one, this was truly one of the most magical places that I have ever been and I don’t want to wander down memory lane and accidently book a ticket back this minute and two, I don’t know if I should share the secret and risk this wonderful place being the next “it” destination. We ended up in Koufonisia, a picturesque paradise tucked away in the heart of Greece’s Cyclades archipelago, while on a sailing trip from Santorini to Mykonos. With its crystal-clear turquoise waters, pristine beaches, and charming town, Koufonisia is a dream destination for travelers seeking a tranquil and authentic Greek island experience.

Koufonisia comprises two main islands: Ano Koufonisi (Upper Koufonisi) and Kato Koufonisi (Lower Koufonisi). Koufonisia’s story begins centuries ago when the islands were part of the larger island of Naxos. In ancient times, Koufonisia served as a safe haven for pirates due to their hidden coves, sheltered bays, and secluded nature. These natural features made the islands ideal for pirates to dock their ships and escape the pursuit of their enemies.

Over time, Koufonisia transformed into a peaceful fishing community, as residents turned their attention to the abundant marine life that thrived in the surrounding waters. Fishing became a way of life for the locals, providing sustenance and a means of livelihood for generations. Throughout the years, Koufonisia remained relatively untouched by external influences, preserving its traditional Cycladic character and way of life. The isolation of the islands contributed to their allure and charm, making them an alluring destination for those (like us) seeking a tranquil escape.

Kato Koufonisi

I had an inkling that we were sailing somewhere special when our anchor dropped for a swim stop at Kato Koufonisi. We were surrounded by the most turquoise waters that I had ever seen and there was truly no choice but to dive in. Swimming amidst a kaleidoscope of shades of blue, surrounded by nothing but our boat and a few flounder, it was a true pinch-me moment.

Chora

Our first stop (literally, as we were in port) was the vibrant main town of Koufonisia, affectionately called Chora by the locals. The main town of Koufonisia, also known as Chora, is a delightful blend of traditional Cycladic architecture and a laid-back island vibe. It was nice to stroll through the narrow streets adorned with whitewashed houses, bougainvillea-filled courtyards, and charming little churches. There were quite a few artisan shops in town to find locally made souvenirs and crafts. Chora is a quick walk from the port and has several grocery stores and bakeries to provision, if you are staying in an AirBnB or continuing on a sailing adventure.

Is it even a Greek building without a cat?

Amongst the treasure trove of shops, bakeries, and small bars, we couldn’t resist the temptation to indulge in a scoop of gelato at Fystiki Gelato, a delightful gelateria that showcased the island’s flavors in every creamy bite. With gelato in hand (pistachio, of course), we continued to explore the labyrinthine alleys, admiring the craftsmanship and creativity of the local artisans.

Pistachio gelato from Fystiki Gelato

Beach Exploring

We heard that no visit to Koufonisia would be complete without experiencing it’s pristine beaches. So, we hopped on a ferry from the port that we were docked at (the main port in town) and embarked on an adventure to Paralia Pori and Gala beaches.

Aboard the ferry from Chora to the beaches

Gala beach is basically a sea cave that opens up to the ocean and is safe, when the water is calm. To access the beach, you must climb down some perilous rocks into the cave and then climb back out (or swim the long way around to Pori beach). After my time in Peru, which is a story for a different time, we opted against rock climbing and headed over to Pori Beach.

Gala Beach

Pori Beach is regarded as one of the most beautiful beaches in Greece, do to the combination of SAND (rare in Greece) and the beautiful, azure sea lapping at said sand. There were a few little places on the beach selling beer and other beverages, there may have been food but the beach is usually a liquid diet spot for me, so I didn’t take note of food offerings. On the opposite side of the beach, about 20 meters away, the island opened up to cliffs, from which brave swimmers were jumping into the clear Aegean.

The Eats

As we arrived in port, after a lovely but tiring morning swimming in the sun, a little taverna caught my eye. It had no name besides “tavern” scrawled on a sign above the entryway and was filled with fishermen done with the early morning harvest. This was the spot. We walked in, grabbed a table, and ordered from the short menu. Within a few minutes we had a couple of cold Mythos in front of us, and not long after David had a plate of freshly caught octopus placed before him, while I was lost in the beauty of a Greek salad. For those note in the know, a Greek salad features a colorful mix of fresh and juicy tomatoes, crunchy cucumbers, tangy Kalamata olives, crisp bell peppers, and creamy feta cheese. The salad is tossed with extra virgin olive oil, sprinkled with dried oregano, and seasoned with salt and pepper. In the US, we tend to see the salad featuring lettuce and topped with potato salad, which is definitely not how you will find the it presented in Greece.

You can’t go wrong with a Greek Salad and a Euro Lager

In the late afternoon, we made our way up to Mylos Koufonisia, a bar perched on a deck overlooking the sea. The drinks were lovely, the view dreamy, and the company even better.

The spectacular view from Mylos Koufonisia

Captain Nikolas, a cozy restaurant known for its delectable Greek cuisine, came recommended by out fearless captain Fotis, so as the sun set, we made our way towards the restaurant near the smaller port on the island. The specialties included fresh seafood and traditional dishes made with local ingredients. We savored every bite and felt immersed in the island’s culinary delights. We ended the meal with ouzo, a Greek spirit that brings the party to life. With its anise-flavored kick and clear, refreshing personality, it’s the shot of laughter and cheer that transforms any gathering into a joyful Greek celebration.

Ouzo, for sipping, not shooting

Little Things

To reach Koufonisia, you can embark on a ferry journey from Athens (Piraeus) or other neighboring Cyclades islands such as Naxos (which has the closest airport). You can also do as we did, and come via private boat. Once on the island, embrace the island’s laid-back ambiance by navigating on foot or renting a bicycle or scooter to explore its wonders. Cars are not allowed, which only adds to the island’s peaceful charm. As mentioned above, boat trips are also available for island hopping and beach exploration. The main island offers a range of accommodation options to suit different preferences and budgets. Cozy guesthouses, family-run hotels, and charming beachfront villas provide the perfect base for your island adventure. As for the best time to visit, late spring (May-June) or early autumn (September-October) offer pleasant weather, fewer crowds, and a chance to experience the island’s tranquility at its finest. While we were only visiting for a couple of days while on our trip through the Cyclades, Koufonisia is a gem that will stay with us forever.

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