When we were booking our trip through the Balkans, Croatia was high on the list. We’ve been chasing the clearest water in the world for a bit and the Adriatic was high on the “must visit” list. Our problem (if you could call it that) is that we only had one free day in Split to check out island life in the area. After combing through the internet and asking friends who had been, we landed on Hvar as our island getaway for the day. Hvar is a picturesque island destination known for its rich history and breathtaking landscapes. During our recent visit, we had the pleasure of exploring the charming town of Stari Grad, indulging in local delicacies, and spending some time seaside.

Stari Grad

Our journey began with a scenic ferry ride from Split to Stari Grad, one of the oldest towns in Croatia. As we disembarked, the Rapidus rental car agency welcomed us at the port, offering a unique mode of transportation for the day—a vintage VW Bug. With the rain staying away and the wind in our hair, we set off to explore the wonders of Stari Grad.

A short drive of approximately 10 minutes took us to Stari Grad town, where time seemed to stand still. This historic gem dates back to the 4th century BC, is one of the oldest towns in Europe, and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We strolled along the narrow cobblestone streets, admiring the charming architecture and immersing ourselves in it’s rich heritage.

Our next stop was the impressive Tvrdalj Castle, an architectural marvel built by the renowned Croatian poet, Petar Hektorović. This 16th-century fortress offered a glimpse into the region’s past, with its fascinating blend of Renaissance and Gothic styles. The entry fee was reasonable, allowing us to explore the castle’s gardens, fishponds, and unique water features.

Hora Hvar

The Stari Grad Plain, a UNESCO-protected agricultural landscape, has witnessed cultivation for over two millennia. We ventured into Hora Hvar, a family-owned estate that embraces sustainable farming practices. Here, we indulged in a 0km lunch—an exquisite culinary experience that celebrated the island’s gastronomic traditions.

Our taste buds were tantalized as we savored the flavors of olive oil and wine during the tastings. The lamb and veal peka, cooked under a bell-shaped lid, showcased the island’s culinary expertise. It was a true feast for the senses, allowing us to appreciate the region’s bounty while supporting local producers. Everything that Hora Hvar served was grown on their land, the owner told us that they recently wanted to add some spice to their dishes– so they planted peppers!

Pokonji dol Beach

In need of some (more) relaxation, we drove across the island to Pokonji dol Beach. The crystalline waters beckoned us, but we happened to be on Europe’s sunniest island on an overcast day. Listen, we are Floridians. We are used to our water being closer to bath water temperature, so, when learning that the water temperature was a brisk 61°F (16°C) AND there was no blazing sun to warm up, we rethought the plan to go for a swim. While having a beer at one of the beachside restaurants and talking about what a shame it was that we wouldn’t get to enjoy the water, the sun peeked through the clouds. In one of those serendipitous moments that can only happen in a new place, we looked at each other and knew what we were going to do. Within minutes, we were stumbling over the pebbly beach, and eagerly plunging into the Adriatic’s refreshing embrace. The beach’s idyllic setting, nestled among pine trees, coupled with an unrivaled water clarity, unlocked a core memory. We spent an hour diving under and coming back up to let the sun warm our goosebumped skin for a bit, relishing the clarity of the water and the joy of the moment.

Hvar Town

Our final destination was Hvar, the “main town” on the island of Hvar and a vibrant hub that seamlessly blends history and modernity. As we ascended the hill, we reached the iconic Fortica Fortress (Spanish Fortress), providing a panoramic view of the town’s terracotta rooftops and the sparkling Adriatic Sea. The fortress, dating back to the 16th century, offered a glimpse into Hvar’s strategic significance throughout the ages.

Hvar, with its lively atmosphere and charming architecture, is a testament to the island’s storied past. Founded by the Greeks in the 4th century BC, it has been a flourishing center of culture, trade, and maritime prowess. Today, the town preserves its historical heritage while offering a vibrant nightlife scene, making it an ideal destination for travelers seeking a blend of history and entertainment.

Doviđenja

Taking the ferry to and from Hvar from Split is a convenient (and popular) option for travelers seeking to explore the stunning Croatian island. The ferry ride typically takes around one to two hours and offers breathtaking views of the Adriatic Sea. The cost of the ferry ticket varies depending on the season, with prices generally higher during the high season (June to August) compared to the low season. During the peak summer months, there are multiple ferry departures per day, providing flexibility in planning your trip. In contrast, during the low season, the frequency of ferry trips may be reduced, so it’s advisable to check the schedules in advance. The best time to visit Hvar is in the shoulder seasons of spring (April to May) and fall (September to October) when the weather is pleasant, and the crowds are smaller. While we only went for the day, Hvar offers a range of options for accommodation, including hotels, guesthouses, and private rentals. It’s recommended to book in advance, especially during the high season, to secure your preferred accommodation. As with any travel destination, if you are renting a vehicle, it’s important to prioritize road safety while exploring. Be mindful of local traffic rules and regulations, and exercise caution when driving or crossing roads, there are a number of one way tunnels and small roads on the island– take your time and enjoy the drive!

Our day on Hvar Island was a memorable journey through time and natural beauty. From the historical marvels of Stari Grad and Tvrdalj Castle to the delectable delights of Hora Hvar and the serene beaches of Pokonji dol, each experience left an indelible mark. As we caught the ferry back to Split, we couldn’t help but feel grateful for the chance to explore this captivating island, carrying with us the memories of a truly unforgettable day.