Dreamy sunsets, whitewashed buildings perched on dramatic cliffs, and the vibrant hues of the Aegean Sea—welcome to Santorini, a Mediterranean paradise that enchants travelers from all corners of the globe. Located in the southernmost part of the Cyclades archipelago, this Greek island gem is synonymous with unparalleled beauty, irresistible charm, and an unforgettable holiday experience.

Santorini, also known as Thira, boasts a rich history that dates back thousands of years. Formed by a volcanic eruption that shaped its distinct crescent shape, the island showcases a dramatic landscape that captivates visitors upon arrival. Whether you’re a sun-seeker, a history enthusiast, or a romantic wanderer, Santorini has an abundance of treasures waiting to be discovered. The island’s iconic towns, such as Fira, Oia, and Imerovigli, are characterized by their trademark white-washed buildings, vibrant blue-domed churches, and narrow winding streets that beckon you to explore further. One of the island’s biggest draws is its breathtaking sunsets, which have become a globally renowned spectacle. Whether you choose to admire the view from the cliffs of Oia or settle into a beachside taverna in Firostefani, watching the sun melt into the horizon amidst a riot of colors is an experience that will forever be etched in your memory.

The Fine Print

You’ve seen the pictures splashed on social media, Santorini is beautiful. It is also crowded, sometimes painfully so, especially in the summer months. You should definitely think about what you want to do on the island and plan your accommodations around that and book early. We booked an AirBnB in the heart of Fira (the main town) as we knew that we would want to be where the action was, without being overwhelmed by tour groups as Oia tends to be. Our apartment was not on the cliffside but had a rooftop pool that overlooked the island and Aegean in the distance. We visited in mid-June, before the crush of tourists in July and August. The island was still pretty crowded, in my opinion, but manageable. The tradeoff was cooler seawater but I can deal with a a refreshing dip if it means not standing shoulder to shoulder with cruise passengers on a tiny street. We did pre-book two tours, just to be certain that they wouldn’t sell out, this is imperative to do in Santorini in the summer.

Getting to Santorini is relatively easy, thanks to its well-connected transportation options. The island has its own international airport, Santorini (Thira) International Airport (JTR), which receives numerous flights from major cities in Europe and beyond. Travelers can also reach Santorini by ferry from various ports in Greece, including Athens’ Piraeus port. Once on the island, getting around is convenient and offers several choices. Renting a car is a popular option, as it provides flexibility and freedom to explore at your own pace. However, it’s essential to note that the island’s narrow roads and limited parking can pose challenges, particularly in high season. Alternatively, walking can be an enjoyable way to navigate the picturesque towns of Santorini, such as Fira and Oia, which are pedestrian-friendly. Taxis are readily available, but they can be expensive, especially for longer journeys. Buses are a budget-friendly option, with an extensive network connecting different parts of the island. However, they can get crowded, particularly during peak tourist periods. It’s important to exercise caution when considering ATV rentals, as they are popular but can be dangerous, especially for inexperienced riders. We saw a horrific ATV accident while visiting Santorini Brewing Company. Thankfully David is skilled in first aid and we were able to get medical attention quickly for the folks involved.

Wine Not?

We landed in Santorini from Athens at 10am and our AirBnB wasn’t yet ready for check in. What is the responsible thing to do given the situation? If you guessed “go day-drinking,” you are correct. Santorini has a long and storied history of wine production dating back thousands of years. Blessed with a unique terroir and a rich volcanic soil, the island has become renowned for its distinct wine varieties and exceptional vineyards, making it a must-visit destination for wine enthusiasts. We booked a tour with Santorini Wine Adventure that had pick-up/drop-off at our accommodation. The tour include stops and tastings at three wineries, along with cheese and snack pairings, a stop in a vineyard to see the unique way that vines are grown on the island, and a very knowledgeable guide to talk us through everything.

The origins of winemaking on Santorini can be traced back to ancient times. The island’s volcanic soil, rich in minerals and nutrients, coupled with its favorable Mediterranean climate, created ideal conditions for grape cultivation. The Minoans, who inhabited the island during the Bronze Age, played a crucial role in establishing the foundations of viticulture on Santorini, recognizing the potential of the volcanic land for producing quality wines. What sets Santorini apart from other wine regions is its unique volcanic terroir. The island is the result of volcanic activity, with its soil primarily composed of ash, pumice, and lava. This mineral-rich soil, coupled with the scarcity of water and the cooling effect of the Aegean Sea, imparts distinct characteristics to the grapes grown here. The volcanic terroir contributes to the island’s famous crisp acidity, minerality, and intense flavors in its wines.

Santorini is home to several indigenous grape varieties that have thrived on the island for centuries. The most prominent is Assyrtiko, a white grape variety known for its high acidity, citrusy flavors, and excellent aging potential. Assyrtiko grapes cultivated on Santorini yield wines with a distinctive character, often described as crisp, mineral-driven, and displaying a unique saline quality. Other native grape varieties, including Aidani and Athiri, are also cultivated, contributing to the island’s diverse wine portfolio. Given the island’s challenging growing conditions, Santorini has developed a unique method of vineyard cultivation to protect the grapevines from strong winds and maximize water retention. The vineyards are traditionally trained in a basket shape, known as “kouloura” or “ampelies,” with the vines woven into low-lying spirals close to the ground. This method shields the grape clusters from the elements, preserving the moisture in the soil and protecting the grapes from excessive sun exposure.

Our tour took us to Hatzidakis, Santo, and Anhydrous wineries. Hatzidakis offers a unique experience of tasting wines in their cellar, allowing visitors to immerse themselves in the winemaking process. At Santo Wines, the stunning view adds to the tasting experience, while the massive cheese and charcuterie board offers delightful pairings with their wines. Anhydrous Winery provides a delightful touch with their lovely dips, creating a perfect accompaniment to their wine tasting. Each winery offers a distinct atmosphere and memorable flavors, making for an enjoyable exploration of Santorini’s vibrant wine scene.

Brewery Hopping

There is no way that we could visit Santorini without checking out the beer scene. While Mythos, Mamos, and Fix lagers were all easy to find and readily available, we were hoping to find some craft beer and the island provided! There are two craft breweries on the island and a visit to both was in order.

Santorini Brewing Company, a beacon of the island’s burgeoning craft beer scene, has become synonymous with quality and innovation. Founded in 2011, this independent microbrewery has captured the essence of Santorini in each bottle, infusing its beers with the island’s unique character. From their flagship “Yellow Donkey” wheat beer, with its refreshing citrus notes, to their robust “Red Donkey” amber ale, boasting caramel and toffee flavors, Santorini Brewing Company offers a diverse lineup to satisfy every beer lover’s palate. With a commitment to sustainability and an unwavering dedication to quality, this brewery has gained recognition both locally and internationally, making it a must-visit destination for beer enthusiasts seeking a taste of Santorini’s craft beer revolution. We were lucky enough to be taken around the brewhouse by the owner and head brewer and had a few samples from the tanks. This brewery is truly a labor of love and the passion is undeniable.

Ftelos Brewing, a rising star in Santorini’s craft beer scene, has quickly made a name for itself with its bold and inventive brews. Established in recent years, Ftelos Brewing has garnered attention for its commitment to pushing the boundaries of traditional brewing techniques. The brewery takes inspiration from Santorini’s volcanic landscape and rich agricultural heritage, incorporating local ingredients like Assyrtiko grapes and wild herbs into their recipes. This experimentation has resulted in a captivating range of beers that showcase both creativity and craftsmanship. Whether you’re sipping their crisp and aromatic “Volcan IPA” or indulging in the unique flavors of their barrel-aged sour ales, Ftelos Brewing promises a taste adventure that reflects the island’s spirit of innovation. With a small but dedicated team of beer enthusiasts at the helm, Ftelos Brewing is poised to leave a lasting impression on the palates of visitors and locals alike. Our wine guide, Aggelos, set us up with one of the higher-ups at Ftelos, who graciously showed us around the building and brewhouse. The entire setup is very state of the art, the building is gorgeous and they are trying very hard to brew as environmentally friendly as possible. We took part in a guided beer tasting and food pairing on the rooftop bar and it was one of the highlights of our time in Santorini.

Akrotiri

In the depths of time, nestled on the southern coast of the beautiful Santorini, lies a captivating archaeological treasure: the ancient city of Akrotiri. Preserved under layers of volcanic ash for over 3,600 years, this remarkable site offers a glimpse into a bygone era, providing invaluable insights into the lives and culture of the Minoans. Well worth a few of hours of your time on Santorini, Akrotiri is a true world marvel.

The story of Akrotiri’s rediscovery is as fascinating as the city itself. In 1967, during excavation work, archaeologist Spyridon Marinatos stumbled upon the remains of a prehistoric civilization buried beneath volcanic ash. A vast network of buildings, streets, and courtyards soon emerged, giving rise to the realization that Akrotiri was once a thriving city with a sophisticated urban design. Today, visitors can witness this incredible achievement of human civilization firsthand.

Often referred to as the “Pompeii of the Aegean,” Akrotiri shares a striking resemblance to its Italian counterpart. Both cities were engulfed by volcanic eruptions, their inhabitants fleeing or tragically perishing as a result. Akrotiri, however, predates Pompeii by several centuries, offering a unique perspective into a civilization that flourished during the height of the Minoan civilization.

Exploring Akrotiri is like stepping into a well-preserved time capsule. The intricate urban planning and architectural brilliance exhibited by the city’s structures are awe-inspiring. Houses with multiple stories, complex drainage systems, and beautiful frescoes adorning the walls all attest to the advanced civilization that once thrived here. As you wander through the labyrinthine streets and squares, it’s impossible not to marvel at the ingenuity of the ancient Minoans.

One of the most remarkable features of Akrotiri is its stunning wall paintings. These exquisite frescoes, beautifully preserved and showcasing a high level of artistry, offer insights into the daily life, culture, and rituals of the Minoan people. Scenes depicting nature, maritime activities, and religious ceremonies transport visitors to a world long gone, yet strangely familiar.

At the site, a modern protective structure has been built to safeguard the ancient city. Here, you can meander through the carefully reconstructed streets and explore the remnants of houses, shops, and public buildings, gaining a tangible sense of the city’s grandeur. To get the full experience, I suggest hiring a guide. There are licensed guides outside of the ticket office offering tours for a set price (~100€). We hired a guide and split the cost with another family who was entering the site at the same time. Our guide was a historian and on top of her depth of knowledge, had access to parts of the site that were unavailable to those with general admission. Entrance to Akrotiri is 12€. There are also museums nearby, such as the Museum of Prehistoric Thera, and a bit further, The National Archeological Museum in Athens, that provide further context and display a variety of artifacts recovered from the site.

Eat!

The food in Santorini was tasty and I enjoyed the island’s specialties. The meal highlight of our 5 day visit was Ammoudi Fish Tavern. The beet salad and fried zucchini blossoms genuinely changed my life. The tavern is right on the water on Ammoudi Bay and if you are a seafood person, the seafood couldn’t be fresher. With the locale in mind, the spot was reasonably priced and the service was attentive.

Santorini also has a few specialties, including the ever-delicious tomatokeftedes. Tomatokeftedes are tomato fritters, made with tomatoes that take on a unique flavor due to island’s volcanic soil. To make tomatokeftedes, ripe tomatoes are finely chopped and combined with ingredients such as onions, garlic, fresh herbs like parsley and mint, feta cheese, breadcrumbs, and sometimes flour or semolina to bind the mixture. The mixture is shaped into small patties and then fried until crispy and golden. Tomatokeftedes are typically served as a meze (appetizer) or as part of a Greek meze platter. If there is one dish you must try in Santorini, this is it.

Island Highlights

Oia, located on the northern tip of Santorini, is undeniably one of the island’s most popular destinations. Known for its breathtaking sunsets, it’s important to note that Oia can get quite crowded, especially during the peak tourist season. Despite the crowds, there are still hidden gems to discover in this charming village. Atlantis Books, a quaint independent bookstore, offers a delightful respite from the bustling streets, where you can browse through a curated collection of literature. Aside from the famous sunset viewpoints, exploring the lesser-known sights of Oia, such as the Maritime Museum or the Byzantine Castle Ruins, can provide a different perspective on the village’s rich history. To avoid the crowds and enjoy a more relaxed experience, it’s advisable to visit Oia early in the morning or during the afternoon when the sun is still shining but the sunset rush has yet to begin. This way, you can soak in the beauty of Oia while having a bit more space to explore and appreciate its unique charm.

Ammoudi Bay, nestled below the cliffs of Oia, is a hidden gem that rewards visitors with its serene beauty and a taste of authentic Santorinian charm. To reach Ammoudi Bay, you can either descend the steps from Oia’s main square or take a short drive down the winding road. Once you arrive, you’ll be greeted by a picturesque fishing village with vibrant turquoise waters and colorful fishing boats bobbing in the harbor. Ammoudi Bay is a haven for swimming enthusiasts, offering crystal-clear waters and a small pebble beach where you can take a refreshing dip or bask in the sun. After working up an appetite, indulge in the freshest seafood at one of the waterfront tavernas while enjoying the tranquil ambiance and breathtaking views.

Emporio, located on the southern part of Santorini, is a charming town known for its rich history and unique sites. To reach Emporio, you can take a bus or drive from Fira, the capital of Santorini. The town is home to notable attractions such as the fortified medieval castle known as Kasteli, which offers panoramic views of the surrounding area. Exploring the town’s narrow alleys and traditional stone houses allows visitors to experience its authentic charm. Additionally, Emporio is in close proximity to the famous black sand beach, making it convenient for beachgoers to enjoy the contrasting beauty of the volcanic coastline.

Santorini’s red sand beach is a striking natural wonder that captivates visitors with its unique beauty. The sand’s vibrant red hue is a result of the island’s volcanic activity, as it is composed of tiny particles of red and black volcanic minerals. To reach the red sand beach, you can take a short hike from the nearby village of Akrotiri or rent a boat to access it from the sea. It’s important to note that the beach can be rocky and the water can be rough, so caution is advised when swimming. A fun fact about the red sand beach is that the towering red cliffs surrounding it provide a natural shield, creating a secluded and intimate atmosphere for beachgoers to enjoy. So, don’t miss the opportunity to witness the remarkable beauty of Santorini’s red sand beach, a testament to the island’s volcanic origins.

The hike/walk between Fira and Oia is a popular and rewarding experience for those seeking to explore the scenic beauty of Santorini. The trail stretches approximately 10 kilometers and takes around 2 to 3 hours to complete, depending on your pace and stops along the way. The best way to do the hike is to start from Fira and follow the well-marked path along the caldera’s edge. The trail offers breathtaking views of the Aegean Sea, volcanic cliffs, and the iconic blue-domed churches that dot the landscape. It’s advisable to embark on the hike in the early morning or late afternoon to avoid the heat and crowds, and to witness the stunning sunrise or sunset along the way. Don’t forget to bring comfortable walking shoes, sunscreen, a hat, and plenty of water to stay hydrated during the journey. With its panoramic vistas and enchanting scenery, the hike from Fira to Oia promises an unforgettable experience for nature lovers and photographers alike.

Volkan on the Rocks, an outdoor movie theater perched on the cliffside in Santorini, offers a unique cinematic experience with breathtaking views. Imagine watching Mamma Mia as the sun sets over the caldera, creating a magical ambiance. The cost of the movie ticket is reasonable, providing excellent value for the setting and experience. It is advisable to make reservations in advance to secure your spot, as the theater can get busy, especially during peak season. Additionally, the theater offers a selection of snacks and beverages for purchase, allowing you to enjoy a delightful movie night under the stars while indulging in tasty treats.

We’ll Be Back

Santorini, with its stunning sunsets, picturesque villages, and rich cultural heritage, leaves an indelible impression on all who visit. Whether you’re wandering through the narrow streets of Oia, basking in the beauty of the red sand beach, or savoring the flavors of local cuisine, Santorini offers a truly unforgettable experience. With its unique blend of natural wonders, historical treasures, and warm Greek hospitality, this captivating island leaves you yearning to return and continue exploring its hidden gems. Santorini truly is a destination that lingers in your heart long after you’ve bid it farewell.